Identifying True Amber (Succinite)
By Garry Platt, garry@gplatt.demon.co.uk
Some Buggy Amber Specimens from Garry's Collection
Since the screening of 'Jurassic Park' interest in the mineral amber has
grown significantly. Unfortunately so has the quantity of fake amber
coming on to the market. Some of these pieces have insect inclusions
skillfully placed in the body of the matrix.
The British Natural History Museum recently discovered that a bee
preserved in amber thought to be one of the oldest known examples of
this particular species was in fact a fake and probably no more than 150
years old. (More of this bee later). Evidence of this nature; that even
the best can be fooled should alert all collectors to the possibility of
being misled or simply cheated.
In some cases copal, which is tree resin which has not yet fully
fossilized to amber and may be anything up 3-4 million years old is
described as true amber. Debate still rages in the UK about certain
Kenyan deposits as to whether they should be called copal or amber and I
have heard of similar arguments concerning deposits found in South
America.
There are a number of simple tests which can be carried out on amber to
check its authenticity. I have listed here all the basic methods I have
come across. More sophisticated and complex tests are possible but they
require access to laboratory equipment. These more complex tests
include: Refraction Index, Precise Specific Gravity and Melting Point.
When examining a specimen you should try at least 3 of the following
methods detailed here. If the item in question fails any one of the
tests, it could well mean the piece is not true amber.
- HARDNESS
- Amber has a hardness on Mohs scale in the region of 2 - 3. Using
appropriate scratch sticks it should be reasonably straightforward to
test the sample under question.
- HOT NEEDLE
- Heat a needle point in a flame until glowing red and then push the point
into the sample for testing. With copal the needle melts the material
quicker than amber and emits a light fragrant odor. Amber when tested
does not melt as quickly as the copal and emits sooty fumes.
- SOLUBILITY
- Copal will dissolve in acetone. This test can be done by dispensing the
acetone from an eye dropper onto a clean surface of the test specimen.
Place one drop on the surface of the test piece and allow to evaporate,
then place a second drop on the same area. Copal will become tacky,
amber will remain unaffected by contact with acetone.
- UV LIGHT
- Copal under a short-wave UV light shows hardly any color change. Amber
fluoresces a pale shade of blue.
- FRICTION
- Rub the specimen vigorously on a soft cloth. True amber may emit a faint
resinous fragrance but copal may actual begin to soften and the surface
become sticky. Amber will also become heavily charged with static
electricity and will easily pick up small pieces of loose paper.
- TASTE
- This test was introduced to me by a antique trader who specialized in
amber beads. She explained that one of the most reliable tests she used
was to taste the amber specimen after washing it in mild soapy water and
then plain water. Whilst she could make no distinction between copal and
amber, she could easily identify plastics and other common substitutes
because of their unpleasant or chemical taste. Amber has hardly any
taste at all. As a method for identification I have not seen this
procedure recorded elsewhere. I can vouch for its effectiveness as a non
destructive method of differentiating between amber and certain other
substances often misleadingly labeled amber.
- FLOTATION (Specific Gravity)
- Mix 23gms of standard table salt with 200ml of luke warm water. Stir
until completely dissolved. Amber should float in such a mixture and
some copals together with various plastics sink.
- INCLUSIONS
- Infrequently amber contains Flora or Fauna inclusions. Correctly
identifying the trapped Insect or plant should be an excellent indicator
of a pieces authenticity. Most inclusions from ancient amber are of
species which are now extinct or significantly changed.
- POLARIZED LIGHT
- Place the suspect piece of amber between two sheets of polarizing
glass or plastic. (Kokin Filter Systems which sell lens accessories for
cameras sell such products). Rotate one of the polarizing lenses slowly
through 360 degrees. In the body of the amber a display of rainbow
colors should cycle through the transparent parts of the material. This
is due to interference patterns being induced in the polarized light
because of the internal strains and stresses within the amber itself. My
general experience with this method is that genuine amber and copal
always show these color changes, where as some acrylics, polymers and
certain plastic do not. Amber which has been drilled and then later
filled with a contemporary inclusion and resin also reveals its self via
the clear disruption of the color display. Essentially; an amber piece
which does not show interference patterns is unlikely to be true amber.
Anyone wishing to find out more about amber in general or these test
methods specifically would do well to consult one of three books
currently available on amber, they are:
- Life In Amber; George O. Poinar, Jr.; Stanford University Press; ISBN: 0-8047-2001-0.
- Amber - The Golden Gem of the Ages; Patty C. Rice; The Kosciuszko Foundation, Inc.; ISBN: 0-917-00720-5.
- Amber - Window to the Past; David Grimaldi; Harry N Abrams; ISBN: 0-8109-1966-4.
Now back to the bee I mentioned earlier. I am afraid that only the
eighth and ninth tests would have identified this particular fake. The
item consisted of a block of true amber into which had been drilled a
hole large enough to receive the dead bee. Resin which had been melted
was then poured back over the insect, encasing it in an apparently
genuine amber prison.
Mineralogical Meanderings
Table of Contents
Bob Keller