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References for Rockhounds
Stone Setting

Creative Stone Setting Order This Book
Creative Stonesetting
by John Cogswell
Hard cover, 8.25" x 10.75", 208 pages, copyright 2008
Sample Page

Humankind has been adorning itself with gems for thousands of years, and for all that time, inventive jewelers have been devising elegant ways to attach stones to gold and silver objects. Too often, instruction stops at the familiar solutions of traditional bezels and prongs. In this landmark book, John Cogswell explores the exciting terrain at the edges of convention.

Creative Stonesetting suggests dozens of new ways to think about attaching stones. In a detailed text and through more than 600 drawings, the author describes concepts, tools, and techniques that will appeal to jewelers of every skill level and aesthetic.

Special attention is given to tool modification and scores of bench-tested shortcuts that will have an instant benefit on the day-to-day work of a practicing goldsmith. In addition, dozens of inspirational works by professional artists will trigger new approaches to familiar problems. Reader beware: after reading this book, you will never look at a setting or a gem in the same way.


Diamond Setting Order This Book
Diamond Setting
The Professional Approach
by Robert R. Wooding
Hard cover, 6.25" x 9.25", 176 pages, copyright 1984
Sample page

Diamond Setting was written to teach diamond setting. It is basic enough to be understood by an apprentice who has very little background in the jewelry industry, yet sufficiently in depth to benefit an experienced diamond setter. The primary objective of this book is perfection. Its theme is two phased: First, to present an authoritative knowledge of diamond setting; second, it is suitable to applied practice, as shown in the illustrations. Therefore, Diamond Setting is actually a training manual to be used as a reference source for diamond setting procedures.

Chapters presented include: Introduction, Required Tool List: Description and Purpose, Selected Tool Preparation and Use Procedures, Pin-Point Setting, Prong Setting Round Diamonds, Prong Setting Fancy Cut Diamonds, Bezel Setting - Gypsy Setting, Channel Setting, Fishtail Setting - Bar-Top Setting, and Bead Setting. Also included are appendices covering Suggested Readings and Diamond Setting Schools, and an Index.


Bead Setting Diamonds Order This Book
Bead Setting Diamonds
with Pavé Applications
by Robert R. Wooding
Hard cover, 6.25" x 9.25", 192 pages, copyright 1985
Sample page

Bead Setting Diamonds presents bead setting as the exclusive subject of this text. It is a diversification of the diamond setting field that has evolved into a departmental specialty in jewelry production establishments. Since bead setting is the fundamental procedure of pavé setting, emphasis is given to the development and expansion of that procedure.

The instruction is detailed and illustrative, and encourages the reader to pursue and innovate alternative measures to problematic segments. Each segment is written to benefit the apprentice as well as the experienced diamond setter. However, the instruction is advanced diamond setting, and therefore includes information not found in books intended for the beginner. Bead Setting Diamonds is organized into four major topical sections: Tool Preparation and Maintenance, The Bead Setting Procedure, Bead Setting Applications, and Advanced Pavé Setting.

Tool Preparation and Maintenance presents chapters on: Tool List, Heat Treating Steel, Graver Preparation, and Making a Beading Tool. The Bead Setting Procedure presents chapters on: Inspect The Mounting, Design A Layout, Drill The Holes, Taper Bore The Holes, Cut the Bearing, Seat The Diamond, Secure The Diamond, Engrave Excess Metal, Shape The Beads and Bright Cut The Metal

Bead Setting Applications presents chapters on: Star Setting, Square Plate, Triangle Plate, Hexagon Plate, Marquis Plate, Bead Setting Diamonds Into A Row and Bead Setting Diamonds Into A Curve. Advanced Pavé Setting includes chapters on: Square Cluster, Round Cluster, Oval Cluster, Pear Cluster and Freestyle Cluster.


Channel Setting Diamonds Order This Book
Channel Setting Diamonds
With Illustrated Procedures
by Robert R. Wooding
Hard cover, 6.25" x 9.25", 136 pages, copyright 1987
Sample page

Channel Setting Diamonds is an advanced edition intended for professional use. The reader is assumed to have previously obtained skills in the use of tools and basic diamond setting experience. Some diamond setting schools and suggested readings are listed in an appendix.

This text is divided into two general sections. Each are consumed of discussions and illustrations. Section I describes basic channel setting techniques arranged in phases. It should be clearly understood before attempting any channel setting procedure. Also, the instruction can be used as a reference source for actual channel setting. Chapters presented in Section I include Inspection, Layout, Cut The Channel, Cut The Bearing, Secure The Diamonds and Finishing.

Section II presents a series of channel setting procedures. They are presented in a step by step sequence and graduate from basic to advanced. Chapters presented in Section II include Basic Closed Channel, Basic Open Channel, Curved Channels, Tapered Channels, Angular Channels, Inlaid Channels (Round Diamonds), and Inlaid Channels (Square Cut Diamonds).

To conclude the course a number of common problems and solutions follow Section II.


The Diamond Setting Manual Order This Book
The Diamond Setting Manual
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Spiral bound, 7" x 10", 233 pages, copyright 2002
Sample page

The Diamond Setting Manual was designed as a reference source for common diamond setting procedures. It is intended for experienced professional diamond setters, and students under the supervision of a qualified diamond setting instructor. The text is divided into seventeen units of instruction based on a series of actual professional case studies. Each unit includes instruction and illustrations that describe how to set diamonds into a particular type of mounting. They are presented in a step by step sequence of events as recorded during the time of setting. Optional techniques are suggested thought the manual for a variety of circumstances.

The seventeen units presented include: Basic Prong Setting, Pin Point (Illusion, Miracle) Setting, Oval Shaped Diamond, Pear Shaped Diamond, Marquise Diamond, Heart Shaped Diamond, Triangular (Trillion) Shaped Diamond, Square Cut (Princess) Diamond, Emerald Cut (Radiant) Diamond, Baguette Setting, Channel Setting, Bezel (Tube) Setting, Gypsy Mounting, Jewel Setting, Bar-Top Setting, Bead (Pavé) Setting, and Fishtail Setting. An appendix of Tools and Techniques presents: Graver Preparation, Burs: Selection and Use, Drilling, Filing, Sawing, Fixtures, Making Specialty Tools, and Hammering-Tapping Techniques. Also included is a list of suggested readings and an index.


Basic Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Basic Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 24 minutes

Basic Gemstone Setting is am introduction to basic gemstone setting, part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers.

This video offers complete real time instruction to set a gemstone into a four prong solitaire mounting. The procedure and techniques have been refined over several years during practical experience, and proven hands-on gemstone setting workshops. Demonstrated step-by-step with close up viewing, and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 1 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding


Oval Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Oval Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 21 minutes

Oval Gemstone Setting is an introduction to setting fancy cut gemstones, part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers.

This video offers progressive instruction to set an oval stone into a common prong setting. Also emphasizes options for conservative and traditional techniques. Demonstrated with close up viewing and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 3 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Pear Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Pear Gemstone Setting
Projects & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 25 minutes

Pear Gemstone Setting is part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. It demonstrates a practical procedure for educational institutions and professional jewelers.

The emphasis is to introduce a prong setting designed to contain the point of a fancy cut gemstone. The techniques are applicable to other shapes. Includes basic to advanced instruction, detailed graphics and close up viewing. Based on Unit 4 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Marquise Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Marquise Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 28 minutes

Marquise Gemstone Setting is part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. This video offers a complete procedure to set a marquise gemstone into a point prong setting.

Emphasis is on how to avoid chipping the stone's fragile points when securing them into narrow prongs. Includes optional techniques used by professional stone setters. Demonstrated step by step, with close up viewing, and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 5 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Princess Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Princess Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 31 minutes

Princess Cut Gemstone Setting is part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. The instruction is presented with close-up viewing and detailed graphics to show advanced techniques.

Emphasis of this video is to secure fragile points of fancy cut gemstones into a V-prong setting. Based on Unit 8 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Emerald Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Emerald Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 21 minutes

Emerald Gemstone Setting is a fancy cut unit in a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. This video shows complete instructions to set an emerald cut gemstone into a four prong solitaire mounting.

The procedure and techniques offer typical solutions with options for specific cases that could be encountered. Demonstrations are shown step by step with close up viewing and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 9 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Bezel Gemstone Setting DVD Video Order This Video
Bezel Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 22 minutes

Bezel Gemstone Setting is a fancy cut unit in a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. The instruction is presented with close-up viewing to show precise techniques applied by professionals to bezel set gemstones.

Step by step instruction with demonstrations for each phase of the procedure. Several features are presented including alternative bearing cutting, seating, and finishing options. Based on Unit 12 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Bead Work
Buyer's Guides
Chain Making
Collecting Guides
Designs & Patterns
Faceting
Fossils
Gemstones
Geology and Earth Science
Gold & Mining
Jewelry Making
Lapidary
Meteorites
Rocks & Minerals
Rockpups
Smithing
Stone Setting
Wire Work

Table of Contents

Bob Keller