References for Rockhounds Faceting

Optical Crystallography isn't a text about faceting or gemstone design per se. But this is an essential text and reference for any faceter or gemstone designer desiring a more than superficial understanding regarding how light actually behaves in mineral crystals. There's significantly more to the behavior of light in gemstones than presented in typical faceting related texts, and optical crystallography is the scientific study of the behavior of light in crystals. This is a college level text published by the Mineralogical Society of America - be prepared for technical language and a fair amount of mathematics involved the presentation. Chapters include Light and Related Phenomena, Light in Isotropic Media, Lenses and the Compound Microscope, The Polarizing Light Microscope, Optical Examination of Isotropic Substances, Optical Indicatrices and Ellipses, The Interference of Light, Optical Examination of Uniaxial Crystals, Introducing the Spindle Stage, Biaxial Crystals, Optical Examination of Biaxial Crystals, Spindle Stage Study of Biaxial Crystals and Rapid Optical Determination of Asbestos Fibers by Dispersion Staining. Read an in-depth Book Review of Optical Crystallography originally published in the American Mineralogist.

A written history about the equipment and work methods that were used through the centuries for cutting and polishing diamonds and colored stones has long been needed. Faceting History provides that account in an interesting, informative and easy to read style. A copy of this book belongs in every faceter's personal library. It is an excellent book and reference for those wanting to be informed and knowledgeable regarding the evolution of the art and technology of both diamond and colored stone faceting over the ages, and how the technology and body of knowledge that many contemporary faceters take for granted came to be.

Faceting History is organized into 8 chapters including: An Introduction to Faceting, Early Man's Stone Appreciation, Diamond-fashioning Procedure and Equipment, Colored-stone Faceting Procedure and Equipment, The Evolution of Cut Designs, Famous and Historic Gemstones, Sources of Diamond and Colored-stone Rough, and Advances in Faceting over the Past One Hundred Years. Faceting History is well illustrated with 129 pictures, diagrams and drawings. Four pages of sources and references are additionally included in its bibliography.

Texas Faceters' Guild Famous Diamond Replicas

Learn How to Facet the Right Way presents detailed instructions regarding the use of faceting equipment and faceting techniques. The text is lavishly illustrated with photographs and diagrams. Shown is the basic equipment a new faceter will need along with explanations as to why and how it is used. There are pictures of most of the commonly available faceting machines along with descriptions of their controls. Other topics covered and demystified for the beginning faceter include faceting and gemstone nomenclature, stone design basics, scoring and charging laps, dopping and transferring proceedures, use of cheaters, how to read faceting diagrams, setting up and adjusting faceting machines, and more. Oriented to learning by doing, this text presents a hands-on approach to faceting five instructive designs with detailed step-by-step diagrams and pictures serving to concisely illustrate the process of faceting each design. Projects start with "Easy 8", a very simple basic octagon design, and progress through "Easy Cushion", "Floater Trillion", "Round Brilliant", and "Brilliant Pear". By the time you have cut each of these introductory designs, the basic principles of faceting will be understood and and have been learned. Highly recommended. Loose leaf with binder and protector sheet for the diagrams, 8.5" x 11" sheets, 58 pages.

If you're a faceter looking for new, high performance cuts, you'll definitely appreciate Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs. These gem designs are created and optimized for specific materials such as Beryl, Cubic Zirconia, Garnet, Quartz, Sapphire, Topaz, or Tourmaline. The diagrams are organized by recommended material - no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven. Jeff Graham's design series feature sharp, high quality printing on loose leaf pages. Gram 1 Faceting Designs is the first in a series of design collections featuring Jeff Graham's designs. Loose leaf with binder and protector sheet for the diagrams, 8.5" x 11" sheets, 63 pages.

Gram Faceting Designs Additional Design #1 is the second design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs - 14 designs optimized for Quartz, 14 designs optimized for Garnet, and 14 designs optimized for Tourmaline - no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 96 and 80 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 44 pages.

Gram Faceting Designs Additional Design #2 is the third design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs - 6 designs optimized for Quartz, 7 designs optimized for Tourmaline, 5 designs optimized for Topaz, 6 designs optimized for Garnet, 2 designs optimized for Apatite, 1 design optimized for Tanzanite, 1 design optimized for Opal, 3 designs optimized for Peridot, 3 designs optimized for Sapphire, 1 design optimized for Cubic Zirconia, 3 designs optimized for Spinel, 1 design optimized for Beryl, and 3 designs optimized for Zircon - no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 96 and 80 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 43 pages.

Gram Faceting Designs Additional Design #3 is the forth design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs - 6 designs optimized for Quartz, 7 designs optimized for Tourmaline, 5 designs optimized for Topaz, 6 designs optimized for Garnet, 2 designs optimized for Apatite, 1 design optimized for Tanzanite, 1 design optimized for Opal, 3 designs optimized for Peridot, 3 designs optimized for Sapphire, 1 design optimized for Cubic Zirconia, 3 designs optimized for Spinel, 1 design optimized for Beryl, and 3 designs optimized for Zircon - no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 96 and 80 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 43 pages.

Money Cuts is the fifth design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs which are easy to facet and do not have a large number of facets. These patterns are designed to be fast and simple to cut and utilize most of the standard length to width ratios. Stones faceted using these designs sell well and are good for most commercial applications as well as suitable for cutting by beginning to intermediate faceters who are ready to expand their faceting horizons. The majority of the designs presented in Money Cuts can be cut in materials with refractive indexes ranging from 1.62 to 1.93 with no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 80 and 96 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 44 pages.

Barions is the sixth design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs utilizing the Barion design concept. Barion designs, originally developed by the diamond trade, have also revolutionized the design of colored stones by providing brightness that is otherwise unachievable in faceted stones with higher length to width ratios and low symmetries. The majority of the designs presented in Barions can be cut in materials with refractive indexes ranging from 1.62 to 1.93 with no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using a 96 index. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 43 pages.

CheckerBoards - Money Cuts is the seventh design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet features 42 additional designs utilizing CheckerBoard crowns and serve to expand the author's popular "Money Cuts" design series. These CheckerBoard patterns are designed to be fairly fast and easy to cut and utilize most of the standard length to width ratios. Stones faceted using these designs sell well and are good for most commercial applications. The majority of the designs presented in CheckerBoards - Money Cuts can be cut in materials with refractive indexes ranging from 1.62 to 1.93 with no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 96 and 120 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 44 pages.

More Money Cuts is the eighth design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet further expands on the author's popular Checker Boards and "Money Cuts" design series and features 42 additional designs which are easy to facet and do not have a large number of facets. These patterns are designed to be fast and simple to cut and utilize most of the standard length to width ratios. Stones faceted using these designs sell well and are good for most commercial applications as well as suitable for cutting by beginning to intermediate faceters who are ready to expand their faceting horizons. The majority of the designs presented in More Money Cuts can be cut in materials with refractive indexes ranging from 1.54 to 1.93 with no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 80, 96 and 120 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 44 pages.

Diamond Checker Boards - Money Cuts is the ninth design collection in the series of Jeff Graham's highly acclaimed gemstone designs for faceters. This design packet further expands on the author's popular Checker Boards and "Money Cuts" design series and features 42 additional designs which are easy to facet and do not have a large number of facets. These patterns are designed to be fast and simple to cut and utilize most of the standard length to width ratios. Stones faceted using these designs sell well and are good for most commercial applications as well as suitable for cutting by beginning to intermediate faceters who are ready to expand their faceting horizons. The majority of the designs presented in Diamond Checker Boards - Money Cuts can be cut in materials with refractive indexes ranging from 1.54 to 1.93 with no transposing or tangent ratioing required! Each of the 42 designs presented are ray-traced, test cut, and proven, and are faceted using 80, 96 and 120 indexes. 8.5" x 11" sheets, 44 pages.

Diagrams for Faceting Volume I is the first volume in the set of three collections of faceting diagrams published by Glenn and Martha Vargas. Included are 160 diagrams that will produce at least that many different gems. Nearly 20 of these have variations that will produce another gem.

This book is divided into ten sections with each section including diagrams that have a close relationship. These are the step cuts, round brilliants, multifacet brilliants, mixed cuts and others. Within each section those that have further relationships are grouped together.

In general, the book starts with the very simple, moves to the more complex and ends with a section devoted to unusual shapes for faceted gems. The greatest part of the book is devoted to the diagrams that are popular, or those that stand to become popular. Nearly all diagrams have some accompanying text that gives a bit of history, or some hints on cutting. Each section, and some of the more unusual diagrams are introduced by explanatory text.

The diagrams include Section I The Very Simple; Section II The Round Brilliants; Section III Brilliants Without Pavillions; Section IV Brilliants Variations of a Circle; Section V Brilliants Other Than Round; Section VI Multifacet Brilliants; Section VII Step Cuts; Section VIII Variations on Geometric Forms; Section IX Mixed Cuts; and Section X The Unusual, The Domed Cuts, The Barion Cuts. Also provided are index transposition charts, a table of recommended culet and crown angles for nearly 200 facetable materials, and a glossary.

Diagrams for Faceting Volume II is the second volume in the set of three collections of faceting diagrams published by Glenn and Martha Vargas. Included are diagrams from numerous designers that will cut over 150 different gems.

This book is divided into twelve sections with each section including diagrams that have a close relationship. These are Section I The Round Brilliants; Section II Ovals, Marquise, Cushions; Section III The Diamond Shapes; Section IV The Split Facet Technique; Section V The Pendeloques; Section VI Hearts; Section VII Triangles; Section VIII The Squares and Rectangles; Section IX The Pentagons and Stars; Section X The Hexagons; Section XI The Octagons; and Section XII Barions and Pseudobarions. Also included are Miscellaneous Diagrams from Ernst Wollert detailing square cushions and octagons.

Diagrams for Faceting Volume III is the third volume in the set of three collections of faceting diagrams published by Glenn and Martha Vargas. Included are diagrams from numerous designers that will cut at least 133 different gems.

This book is divided into eleven sections with each section including diagrams that have a close relationship. These are Section I The Round Diagrams; Section II Ovals and Their Relatives; Section III Triangles; Section IV Squares, Rectangles, Etc.; Section V Pentagons; Section VI Hexagons; Section VII Heptagons; Section VIII Octagons; Section IX Nonagons; Section X Barions and Pseudobarions; and Section XI The Unusual Diagrams.

The inclusion of seven-fold diagrams (heptagons) and nine-fold diagrams (nonagons) is new to the authors' books. These are easy to cut diagrams that produce spectacular gems. Most of the complex diagrams in the unusual section will produce excellent gems. Some do not cut what might normally be called excellent gems, but instead are gems that are interesting. As a whole, the more complex diagrams are challenges to suit the advanced faceter.

We suggest beginning faceters purchase Introduction To Meetpoint Faceting. First published in 1985, this classic faceting text belongs in the library of every faceter and will be especially appreciated by novice faceters and faceting students. The purpose of Introduction To Meetpoint Faceting is to introduce the faceting terminology and techniques peculiar to the meetpoint method of faceting.

Meetpoint faceting is a system of cutting the non-round facet designs without using preformers to generate an exact preformed outline as a starting point. Because each set of facets is cut to a meetpoint or target formed by cutting a previous set of facets, the meetpoint cutting can be done very accurately. The experience and understanding gained cutting the designs in this book can change you from a beginning cutter with lots of fears of the unknown, to a confident intermediate cutter.

Introduction To Meetpoint Faceting presents five designs in well illustrated, step-by-step sequences as a vehicle for introducing the faceter to the meetpoint technique and advancing their faceting skills. The "Round Brilliant" emphasizes the importance of cutting sequence. The "Lazy Oval" introduces the requirement for using 1/10th degree angle settings. The "Commercial Marquise" addresses the problems associated with a long narrow shape, along with the special need for absolute accuracy in realigning the stone to the previously established indexing after transfer. The "Superpear 96" design demonstrates off-center dopping and the large number of different steps required due to having only one axis of symmetry. The "Ember" design introduces the Centerpoint Angle Method (CAM) preform and the indefinite cutting depth of the first step of an "outside-to-inside" cutting sequence.

Facet Design Ovals Volume 1 provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the oval shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 89 different oval cuts by various designers. Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 17 complete oval designs by the authors including Double Fan and Bar, Eight Main Oval, Long Lazy Oval, Supernova SHM 6x9, Longer Lazy Oval, Roval A, Poval, Oval for GGG 6x8, Barion Oval, Lavo 6x8, Lavo 6x9, Commercial Oval, Ten Main Oval, Choval, Another Lazy, Checker Oval, and Longest Lazy Oval.

Additionally, a mix and match section provides detailed cutting instructions for 9 alternate pavilions and 6 alternate crown designs at each of the L/W ratios 1.20, 1.25, 1.33, 1.40 and 1.50. Incorporated techincal discussions include Interpreting Faceting Diagrams, Definitions, General Formulas, Tangent Ratio Translation, The Oval, Approximate Oval, True Elliptical Oval, Eight Main Oval Brilliant, MHA and CAM Preforms, Meetpoint Faceting, and Faceting Machine Accuracy. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Design Navette Marquis Volume 2 provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the navette/marquise shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 50 different marquise cuts by various designers. Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 23 complete marquise designs by the authors including Meetmark, Highmark, Marquise for GGG, MPM Marquise, MPM Marquise 20 Segment Girdle, MPM Marquise 24 Segment Girdle, MPM Marquise 28 Segment Girdle, MPM Marquise 32 Segment Girdle, MPM Marquise 16 Segment Girdle, Harlmarq, Scotchmarq, Parquet, Marquise MP96, Chisel Marquise, Brilliant Marquise MPM, Commercial26arquise, Brilliant Marquise Modified, Lazy Marquise, Navette 18 Segment Girdle, Navette 22 Segment Girdle, Navette 18 Segment Girdle, M&M Marquise, and Navette 14 Segment Girdle.

A preform section provides cutting instructions for twelve 10-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, ten 12-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, nine 14-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, seven 16-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, seven 18-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, seven 20-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, six equal 22-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, six equal 24-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios, eight equal 26-segment marquise preforms, and five equal 30-segment marquise preforms at various L/W ratios.

Incorporated technical discussions include Generation of the General "Navette/Marquise" Shape, Two-to-One Marquise, Narrow End Main Phenomenon, and Special Navette/Marquise Calculation Formulas.

Facet Design Heart and Pear Volume 3 provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the pear and heart shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 54 different pear and pendeloque cuts and 24 heart cuts by various designers.

Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 18 complete pear and pendeloque designs and 11 heart designs by the authors including Superpear 64, Superpear 96, Lazy Pear 1, Lazy Pear 2, Lazy Pear 3 (Little Fatty), 8 Main Pear Meetpoint, Parabo Pear, Nine Main Pear Meetpoint, Seven main Pear Meetpoint, Commercial Pear, Oval End Pear, Lazy Pear 3 Recut Option, Lazy Pear 1 Recut Option, Lazy Pear 2 Recut Option, Pendeloque, Lazy Pendeloque, Three Arc Pear, Three Arc Pendeloque, 13 Main Heart, 10 Main Heart, Heart-In-A-Heart, Lazy Heart, Brilliant Heart 72, Brilliant Heart 64, Highlight Heart 64, Cam-Brill Heart 64, Cam-Hili Heart, Cam-Brill Heart 72 and Cam-Brill Heart 64.

Incorporated technical discussions include Heart and Pear Nomenclature, Pear and Pendeloque Outline, Heart Outline, Relocating the Dop Center, Transfer Indexing, and Recut Option. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Design Cut Corner Rectangle Emerald provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the cut corner rectangle/emerald shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 70 different cut corner rectangle/emerald cuts by various designers.

Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 21 complete cut corner rectangle/emerald designs by the authors including Scissorem, ECED End 1.40-8-2, Scissor Z, ECED End 1.40-1-5, Ember, Recut-Em 6x8, Super Emerald, ECED End 1.40-2-1, ECED End 1.40-2-2, ECED End 1.40-3-1, ECED End 1.40-3-2, ECED End 1.40-4-1, ECED End 1.40-4-2, ECED End 1.40-5-1, ECED End 1.40-5-2, ECED End 1.40-6-1, ECED End 1.40-6-2, Golden Scissor, ECED End 140-9-2, Tourmaline Special and ECED End 1.40-7-2.

Incorporated technical discussions include Cut Corner Rectangle, ECED End Emerald Outline, Ideal Step Cut, Step Cut Crowns (General), General Design Considerations, and Design of Typical Scissor Crowns. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Design Rounds Volume 5 provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the round shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 340 different round cuts by various designers.

Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 12 complete round designs by the authors including SRB Unstacked Mains, SRB Stacked Mains, Six Main Hilite, Six Main Hilite Zircon, PR Seven Main Brilliant, PR Nine Main Brilliant, PR Eleven Main Brilliant, 6/12 Multifacet, Six Main Highlight, Wild Rose 96, Six Four Fan and Eight Main HiLite.

Incorporated technical discussions include Table Size Definition, Girdle Thickness and Finish, Cutting Sequence, Designing for Brilliance and Apex Facets. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Design Barions provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the Barion faceted gemstone. This book breaks away from the other 6 volumes in Long and Steele's Facet Design series in that it is dedicated to a transcendent design and cutting technique as opposed to a specific category of gem shapes. Planviews are provided for 92 Barion cuts by various designers encompassing all the standard gem shapes.

Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 52 complete barion designs by the authors including SPE Triangle, CC Triangle Barion, CC Barion Triangle, CC Triangle Split Barion, CC Triangle Double Barion, CC Triangle Barion, Barion Square, Square Barion, Split Square Double Barion, Superflash One, Split Facet Barion Emerald, Barion Split Facet Emerald (Senaal), SP Barion Pentagonal, SP Double Barion Pentagonal, CC Barion Pentagonal, CC Double Barion Pentagonal, SP Hexagonal Barion, CC Hexagonal Barion, SP Hexagonal Barion #2, Octagonal Barion, Diamond Barion, Barion Fan, Super Cushion Triangle, Cushion Triangle Barion, Cushion Triangle Barion, Checker Square Barion, Square Cushion Barion, Square Cushion Barion, Square Cushion Barion, Super Cushion Rectangle, Split Barion Cushion, Cushion Rectangle Half Barion, Double Barion L/W 1.2, Cushion Half Barion, Pentagonal Cushion Barion, Pentagonal Cushion Barion, Pentagonal Cushion Barion, Offset Main Oval Barion, Offset Main Oval Barion, Offset Main Oval Barion, Offset Main Oval Barion, Offset Main Oval Barion, Oval Barion (For Small Stones), Oval Barion (For Large Stones), Split Facet Oval Barion, Barion Oval L/W 1.25, Barion Oval L/W 1.33, Barion Oval L/W 1.40, Barion Oval L/W 1.50, Barion Commercial Marquise, Barion Pear, and Barion O'Henry.

Incorporated technical discussions include Barion Design Concepts, Crowns for Barion Pavilions, Corner Location by the Angle Method (CLAM), Tangent Ratio (Angle Translation), and Tangent Ratio Conversion Nomograph. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Design Antique Square Cushion provides an extensive treatment of the design and cutting of the antique cushion shaped faceted gemstone. Planviews are provided for 91 different antique cushion cuts by various designers.

Detailed cutting instructions are presented for 20 complete antique cushion designs by the authors including Apex Crown, Step Apex, Split Side Cushion, Cullinan Variation 1, Cullinan Variation 2, Shallow Pavilion 1, Basic Barion Antique Cushion, Split Facet Barion, Barion Cushion (Large Stones), Large Checker, Small Checker, Step Star Crown, Highlight Barion, Simple Cushion, Shallow Pavilion II, Barion Cushion, Square Cushion Stacked Barion, Reverse Barion, Fan Step Barion, and Square Side Barion.

Incorporated technical discussions include Brightness and Reflection Plots, Brightness Contour Plots, Brightness Contour Plot (Quartz), Brightness Contour Plot (Topaz), Brightness Contour Plot (Corundum), Brightness Contour Plot (Cubic Zirconia), MinMax Pavilion Angle, Apex Facet Dark Spot and Conclusion. A shape classification diagram is provided inside the front cover showing profiles and nomenclature for 46 different stone shapes and outlines.

Facet Cutters Handbook is a faceting primer written for the primary purpose of helping the beginning faceter and those who still consider themselves in this class. Separate sections explain dopping, polishing, faceting angles, and index conversion.

Detailed instructions and diagrams are provided for cutting the Standard Brilliant, French aka Calibre, Triangle Step, Double French aka Cardinal, Emerald, Six-Rayed Star, Pentagon, Cut-Corner Triangle, Step Cut, Cardinal Kite, Cut-Corner Kite, Keystone Step, Keystone Cardinal, Cut-Corner Keystone, Oblong Hexagon, Modified Square Brilliant, Don Diego, Step Cut round, Double Bar, Bar Cut Pendeloque, Hexagonal Brilliant, Opposed Bar, and Scintillator Brilliant.

First published in 1962, Facet Cutters Handbook is an enduring classic which has weathered the test of time. Compact and concisely written, this primer provides a lot of faceting information and how-to for a modest cost.

Faceting For Amateurs was first published in 1969. This work by Glenn and Martha Vargas is considered to be the faceter's bible and is probably the most frequently recommended primer for faceters. It is not just a book for amateurs; we also recommend it to professional faceters, as it is a comprehensive book that will be constantly used as a reference. This fourth edition is the most extensive in coverage of all aspects of faceting. Each chapter has been given a complete rewriting, with some new equipment, techniques, and ideas discussed and evaluated. Some techniques which might be considered obsolete, have been deleted, or given less attention. Some new faceting materials are described, and methods of faceting them are discussed.

Chapters include: Chapter I Gems Are Minerals; Chapter II Faceting Machines; Chapter III Laps That Cut; Chapter IV Laps That Polish; Chapter V Choosing Materials; Chapter VI Optical Properties; Chapter VII Angles For Faceting; Chapter VIII Faceted Stone Patterns; Chapter IX Preparing For Faceting; Chapter X Cutting The Facets; Chapter XI Polishing The Gem; Chapter XII Soft Materials; and Chapter XIII Disposition And Care of Gems.

Detailed cutting patters presented include Petal Cut, Eight-Sided Brilliant, Standard Brilliant, The Highlight Cut, Ten-Fold Standard Round Brilliant, Twelve-Fold Standard Round Brilliant, Horizontal Split Mains Brilliant, The Dutch Rose, The Double Dutch Rose, The Cross Rose, Rose Recoupee, Commercial Cut, Oval With Culet As A Keel, Oval With Culet As A Point, Five-Rayed Star, Six-Rayed Star, Portuguese Cut, Simple Step Cut, Round Step Cut, Emerald Cut, French Star, Double French Star, Barion Round Brilliant and The Square Barion Cut.

Extensive appendices on natural and man-made materials provide physical, mineralogical, optical properties and characteristics with cutting and polishing tips for 150 different facetable materials Actinolite through Zirconia. Other appendices include manufacturers and distributors of faceting equipment and miscellaneous information. Also included is a glossary and index.

Facetron is the factory operator's manual shipped with Facetron faceting machines. It provides assembly and operator instructions for the Facetron.

Fundamental Faceting is published by the Graves Company as a faceting primer and manual for the Graves faceting machines. While the illustrations employ Graves machines, there is also a good deal of general how-to information for any new faceter in this booklet.

Section I Introduction covers History and Terms. Section II Gems covers Selection of Faceting Rough and Type Of Cuts. Section III Machine Description covers General, Faceting Head and Machine Description. Section IV Faceting Procedures covers Faceting Sequence, Types Of Laps, Dopping, Preforming, Preforming Procedure, Cutting The Girdle and Pavilion Facets, Transferring, Cutting The Crown, Cutting The Table, Polishing and Faceting Tips. Section V Light covers Refraction, Reflection, Critical Angle and Dispersion. Section VI Diagrams and Tables covers Angles In Faceting, Gem Material Data, Diamond Polishing, Round Brilliant Cut With Faceted Girdle, Square Step Cut, and The Emerald Cut. Section VII Equipment Maintenance covers Metal Bonded Laps and Machine.

An index and addendum of additional reading is included.

How To Cut A Diamond presents the fundamental basis for becoming a diamond cutter and a thorough exposition of the art of diamond cutting. It is strongly suggested before investing in machinery, equipment, tools or diamonds that the aspiring diamond cutter peruse this text thoroughly. An avid reader who makes a study of this text, and who is determined to become a diamond cutter, can acquire the necessary insight into the crystallography of diamonds and the highly specialized tools and techniques involved in cutting them. This text may also serve to profitably convince some colored stone faceters who are interested in cutting diamonds, but who are still unfamiliar with the complexities involved in the art of diamond cutting, that cutting diamonds may not be suitable for them as a hobby or vocation after all.

The text is organized into 12 chapters: I Tools and Equipment, II The Wheel - Its Preparation, Care and Use, III Cleaving and Sawing, IV Girdling or Shaping, V Proportion in the Diamond, VI Proportion Continued - Blocking Bottoms and Bolas, VII Grain in the Diamond - blocking The Four and Two Points, VIII Cutting a Three Point - Blocking and Brillianteering, IX Brillianteering of a Four and Two Point Diamond, X Cutting the Fancy Shapes - The Straight Edged and Free Form, XI Cutting the Ellipticals, and XII Brillianteering the Ellipticals.

Learning to Facet in the 21st Century is an introductory faceting text written for beginning faceters. In this primer author Jim Perkins promotes good cutting skills based on traditional faceting concepts and meetpoint technique.

Step-by-step cutting instructions and diagrams are presented in sequential lessons for four basic gemstone designs: a round brilliant, a standard round brilliant, a center-point oval and a trillion. Also provided are cutting diagrams for six additional designs including round brilliant variations, an apex crown octagon, and a lazy oval.

Master Gem Cutting Tips unveils tips, techniques, methods and procedures used or originated by master gem cutters who are willing to share their expertise with others.

Articles and tips include: Make Diamond Paste, What Every Gemcutter Should Know About Abrasives, Breaking the Superglue Bond, Effective Method to Remove CA, Use of Epoxy, Using Syringes For Fast Epoxy, Ridding a Buff of Contamination, Making Interesting Cabochons, Special Techniques for Cabochons, Cutting Grooves and Channels, Bill Horton's "Drunken Oval", For Brilliance Cut a Sunflower, A Dopping Technique, Different Approaches to Dopping, Dopping Method Relies on Shellac, Drilling Small Holes in Gemstones, Tips on Faceting, A Way to Cut Even Break Facets, For Good Results Use Tangents, Faceting With"Ticks", Cut Table First, Then Relax and Cut, Some Comments of Serpentine, Heat Treating, Suggestions For Best Universal Faceting Angles, Interpreting Imperfections, Troy vs. Avoirdupois, Technique for Scratch Identification, "Running the Wheel" is Important Cab Technique, Cleaning Pelletized Resin Laps, Resurfacing Laps, Lap Tips From Experts, Thin Polishing Laps Gain Acceptance, Laps: Cast Iron Laps are Useful, Making Your Own Laps, Cliff Jackson's Wax Lap, Which Shape Sells Best, The 7 Points of Payoff Profits, Consistent Polish Requires a System, Oxalic Acid Polish, Techniques on Ceramic Polishing, Channel Polisher? Tray a Toothbrush, Polishing Buffs and Polishes, Ceramic Laps, Solving Difficult Polishing Problems, Colloidal Silica Proves Very Effective Gemstone Polish, Use Baby Shampoo With Diamond, Tips on Repair Work, Special Dopstick For Ring Repairs, Cutter Prepares Release Form, A Sawing Technique, Carving Techniques With a Saw, Quick Sawing, Paua Shells Beautiful-But Dangerous, Techniques For Cutting Sunstones, Tips in Corundum Polishing, Star Sapphire Height is Optional, Opal Cutting/Polishing, Marking Girdles, Avoiding a Shower When Girdling, A Trick For Even Girdles, Proper Lighting is Important, Papier-Mache For Unique Jewelry, Do You Really Need Angle Splitters, Good Holder For Printing, Saving Contents, Construction of a 1/10 Vernier, Good Use For Ceramic Laps, How to Make a Polariscope, Removing Oil, and The Big Fight Against Rust.

Master Gem Polishing is a comprehensive primer and reference on gem polishing. Because the subject of gem polishing is so vast and complex, the author spent seven years researching and working on this massive and comprehensive work. Regardless of your gem cutting discipline, if you have questions or you are stymied by a seemingly unanswerable situation involving gem polishing, the answer will probably be found somewhere in the pages of Master Gem Polishing

The subject areas include: Gem Polishing Theories and Principles, Polish and Carrier Materials, Polishing Techniques for Faceters, Cabochon Cutters and Carvers, How to Make Your Own Laps, Wheels, Buffs, Equipment, Special Polishing Tactics with Different Materials, Techniques with Mixed Polishing Agents, Setting Up for Production Polishing, Equipment and Tools Used in Gem Polishing, Stones that Require Special Care and Polishing Methods, Gemstone Specifications List, Crystallographic Information, Important Safety Aspects of Gemcutting, Sources for Materials and Supplies.

Appendix 1 provides lists of Suppliers of Equipment and Gemstones, Appendix 2 provides Descriptions of Materials Used in Polishing Gemstones, and Appendix 3 provides an Avoirdupois and Troy Weight Chart, Bibliography and Index.

Designed for Quartz presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 36 designs for the 96 index, 2 designs for the 80 index, 11 designs for the 72 index and 1 design for the 120 index.

Original Gemstone Facet Designs Book Number One presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 47 designs for the 96 index, 2 designs for the 80 index, 1 design for the 120 index. A glossary of terms and mathematical ratios and table providing critical angle, refractive index, hardness, dispersion with recommended angles, polish and polishing laps for 29 commonly faceted materials from andalusite through zircon are also provided.

This design collection is also available as a Windows compatible CD for GemCad users. You must have GemCad installed on your computer to use this CD.

Original Gemstone Facet Designs Book Number Two presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 41 designs for the 96 index, 8 designs for the 77 index, 1 design for the 64 index. A table providing critical angle, refractive index, hardness, dispersion with recommended angles, and polishes and for 34 commonly faceted materials from almandine garnet through zoisite is also provided.

This design collection is also available as a Windows compatible CD for GemCad users. You must have GemCad installed on your computer to use this CD.

Original Gemstone Facet Designs Book Number Three presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 29 designs for the 96 index, 8 designs for the 80 index, 5 designs for the 72 index, 4 designs for the 84 index, 2 designs for the 120 index, 2 designs for the 77 index. A table providing critical angle, refractive index, hardness, dispersion with recommended angles, and polishes for 37 commonly faceted materials from almandine garnet through zoisite is also provided.

This design collection is also available as a Windows compatible CD for GemCad users. You must have GemCad installed on your computer to use this CD.

Original Gemstone Facet Designs Book Number Four presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 34 designs for the 96 index, 9 designs for the 80 index, 4 designs for the 72 index, 4 designs for the 84 index, 1 designs for the 120 index, 1 design for the 84 index, 1 design for the 77 index.

This design collection is also available as a Windows compatible CD for GemCad users. You must have GemCad installed on your computer to use this CD.

Original Gemstone Facet Designs Book Number Five presents planviews and cutting instructions for 50 assorted designs: 27 designs for the 72 index, 25 designs for the 96 index, 3 designs for the 80 index, 3 designs for the 77 index, 1 designs for the 84 index, 1 designs for the 64 index. A table providing critical angle, refractive index, hardness, dispersion with recommended angles, and polishes for 37 commonly faceted materials from almandine garnet through zoisite is also provided.

This design collection is also available as a Windows compatible CD for GemCad users.

Raytech Shaw Faceter Handbook is the factory operator's manual shipped with Raytech-Shaw faceting machines. It provides assembly and operator instructions for the Raytech-Shaw.

Chapter One covers the operation of the faceting machine and reading its 1/10° vernier. Chapter Two covers how facets are formed and names of each part of a faceted stone. Chapter Three covers selecting stones for faceting, how to preform a stone on a grinding wheel and how to dop a stone. Chapter Four provides a complete step-by-step description of how to cut and polish a simplified brilliant. Chapter Five covers cutting and polishing the 57 facet round brilliant. Chapter 6 covers how to cut rectangular stones such as French Star and Emerald Cut. Appendix I provides a table of popular gemstone characteristics including harness, refractive index. critical angle and facet angles. Appendix II provides helpful hints. Appendix III addresses the causes of scratching.

Finally! Here is a video that has basic information and shows the step-by-step procedures for cutting a standard round brilliant, including grinding procedures, machine operation, dopping and much more.

The Book of Gem Cuts Volume 1 provides diagrams for faceting 15 designs encompassing the Standard Brilliant Cut, Emerald Cut, Modified Brilliant Cut - Horizontal Split Mains, Modified Brilliant Cut - Vertical Split Mains, Zircon Cut, Modified Brilliant Cut, Calibre Cut, Double Star Cut, Mitchell Six-Ray Star Cut, Mitchell Five-Ray Star Cut, Briolette Cut, Double Rose Cut, Diamond Shape Cut, Triangular Mixed Cut and Jubilee Cut.

Also provided is a table of physical properties for commonly faceted materials, polishing agent recommendations for commonly faceted materials, standard brilliant preform, emerald cut preform and general instructions for cutting sequence.

The Book of Gem Cuts Volume 2 provides diagrams for faceting 22 designs encompassing the Brilliant Briolette Cut, Reverse Cut, Brilliant Bead Cut, Double Diamond Cut - Horizontal, Double Diamond Cut - Vertical, Portuguese Cut, Mixed Cut, Pseudo Marquis Cut, Step Bead Cut, Marquis Cut, Step Cut Heart, Brilliant Cut heart, Pendeloque Cut, Bar Cut, Checker Cut, Scissors Cut, Zigzag Cut, Skew Cut, Step Cut Oval, Brilliant Cut Oval, Cairo Cut, and Brilliant Briolette Cut.

Also provided is a table of physical properties for commonly faceted materials, polishing agent recommendations for commonly faceted materials, and information on adjusting main angles to suit materials of differing refractive indexes.

The Book of Gem Cuts Volume 3 provides diagrams for faceting 19 designs encompassing the Bicentennial Cut, Birdcage Cut, Brilliant Cross Cut, Devil's Triangle Cut, Fairy Wand Cut, Grieger's Fantasy Cut, High Twelve Cut, Miser Cut, Moonbeam Cut, Nine Squares Cut, Octabril Cut, Pasha With A Twist, Pinwheel Cut, San Francisco Cut, Snowflake Cut, Step Cut Pendant, Sunburst Cut, Switzer's Brilliant cut, and Trapeze Twist Cut.

Also provided is a table of physical properties for commonly faceted materials, polishing agent recommendations for commonly faceted materials, and conventions used with faceting diagrams.

The Book of Gem Cuts Volume 4 provides diagrams for faceting 15 designs encompassing the Rectagon Cut, Lone Star Cut, Square Dance Cut, Mixed Cushion Cut, Sensu Cut, Combo Cut, Fan Drop Cut, David's Deep Star Cut, Quadra-Brill Cut, Star Bright Cut, Square Shallow Simple cut, Brilliant Kite cut, Twelve Triangle Cut, Rectangle-408 cut, and Heraldic Cut.

Also provided is a table of physical properties for commonly faceted materials, polishing agent recommendations for commonly faceted materials, and information on adjusting main angles to suit materials of differing refractive indexes.

Table of Contents

Bob Keller